Curly, coily, kinky - however you choose to christen your hair, it’s that magical texture that makes us so proud.
Now let’s get scientific! Let’s start at the root because the curl of our hair is determined by the shape of the follicle. If it’s oval-shaped rather than circular, the hair grows out coiled – just like when you pull ribbon between your thumb and a scissor blade to make it curl (clever, right?). The narrower the oval, the tighter the coil. Because of this, curly hair tends to be drier and needs less washing than straight hair; oils from the scalp find it more difficult to slip down the hair.
The journey from root to tip is a corkscrew rather than a straight line. Once you’ve got these two facts on board, it’s so much easier to understand our hair and how it behaves. Your hair needs to be nurtured, accepted and embraced, rather than neglected or controlled.
Understanding your curl type and hair density (how much hair you have rather than how thick each strand is) is crucial for that, and for finding the right products and routines to bring out the best of your curls. Don’t fret if your hair doesn’t 100% fit into one of the categories. Curlier sections and not-so-curly areas are normal, so just map out your head and treat each bit accordingly.
3A Curls
3A: This is the moment when hair becomes curly rather than wavy. Often large, loopy S-shape or corkscrew curls in a, roughly the diameter of a glue stick. This type of hair can struggle to hold a defined curl, so finger coiling and light gel are often essential.
3B Curls
3B: This curl type has tighter ringlets than 3A, about the size of a finger. Mostly corkscrew shaped with a few looser S-shapes or tighter curls. These curls are more prone to dryness - so take extra care of those ends!
3C Curls
3C: Chopstick-sized curls, in between curly and coily. This hair type tends to have more volume than the other 3s thanks to its tighter structure, and also shrinks more when drying.
4A Curls
4A: Here come the coils! The bridge between curly and more afro hair. This hair type has a distinct curl pattern the size of a rose’s stem. Needs much more moisture than the type 3s due to its lack of layers on the cuticle (they protect the hair from drying out).
4B Curls
4B: Each coil starts to take on different shapes rather than just corkscrews: think zigzags, loops and tight S’s. Oils are important on this hair type and onwards, they work their magic to lock in moisture.
4C Curls
4C: Often misunderstood as more coarse and unbreakable, this section is the most delicate and needs extra TLC. A similar coil shape to 4B but tighter (roughly the size of a wire coat hanger), it has the most volume and shrinkage.
